Support

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some common questions people ask about our kilns:

Q. How do I determine what voltage I have?

A. While most residences have 240v, there are some cases where this is not true. The most certain way to determine what voltage you have is to measure it. You can do this by measuring the voltage across the two flat blades of the receptacle where you will be plugging in your kiln. Please note that it is not sufficient information to measure from each flat blade to the ground receptacle since this measurement will result in 115 to 120 on either 208 or 240 volt supplies.

Q. Why doesn't the kiln get hot enough?

A.

• You have the wrong voltage kiln for your supply voltage (240v kiln on 208v supply).

• The elements are getting worn out. Replace elements.

• The lid is not shut. Take the lid prop out and close the lid completely.

• An element is broken.

• The kiln is loaded very heavily

• The relay is not working (KM kilns).

• Wiring to the kiln from the circuit breaker is not large enough or too long.

• Other electrical components or parts are failing or there is a misunderstanding of how to use the equipment.

Q. Why does my kiln get too hot?

A.

• Placing wrong cone in the sitter.

• Placing the cone incorrectly in the kiln sitter.

• Not raising the falling weight.

• Not using a cone in the sitter but pushing the plunger in.

• Shelf or ware touches the kiln sitter and prevents the sensing rod from falling.

• Release claw improperly adjusted. Check every 30 firings.

• Improper venting allows contaminants to accumulate on the swivel inside the shut off tube.

• Too much kiln wash on sensing rod or cone rests. Replace cone rests and do not use kiln wash on them.

• Cone temperature does not match the clay or glaze maturing temperature.

• Sensing rod corroded, bent, or worn too thin.

• Mechanical errors: Falling weight does not release plunger or return spring is broken.

• (KM kilns) Ramp/Hold program used instead of Cone Fire may overheat because the shut off time is determined by the actual temperature and not the actual amount of heat work.

• (KM kilns) Thermocouple is defective or connected backwards.

• (KM kilns) Relays stuck on.

Q. My feeder element wires, which are white when they are new, are very dark brown now that the kiln has been fired. Is there something wrong with my kiln?

A. No, there is probably nothing wrong. The resin from the heat baffle insulation burns brown even after the first firing. This is especially prevalent on the feeder wires at the top of the kiln where the wires are the hottest.

Q. I have the wrong voltage for my kiln. What can I do now?

A.

• Replace the elements.

• Sell the kiln to someone with the correct voltage & purchase a new one.

• If the supply voltage is less than the kiln's voltage you can fire the kiln to a much lower temperature than the rated temperature for that kiln. (208v supply, 240v kiln).

• If the supply voltage is greater than the kiln's voltage you can not fire the kiln because it will draw too much amperage. (240v supply, 208v kiln).